Tuesday 24th March.

Good start to day with bicycle ride in new territory and coffee in local cafe in minute village. Ancient, but friendly grannie lurking behind vintage espresso machine. Sat outside listening to country sounds and the occasional passing vehicle and feeling relaxed and cheerful. Watched local grannies going to and from the little local shop which like most such shops in villages here is heavily disguised as a private home. Back home for lunch and exciting planning of potential visit to Alentejo district. ( next bit up from the Algarve). Then in the afternoon off to Salir via a new area of small country roads where it is fun getting lost in tiny villages where there is only room for one car, and you drive heart in mouth in case you meet another car ( which you rarely do!). Salir turned out to be more spectacular than the guide had described and has an interesting old Moorish castle with spectacular views over the surrounding countryside. Also very good small museum within the castle looked after by very pleasant helpful young woman who spoke virtually no English, but fluent French. So we learnt a lot about the place. Part of the village ( and a very beautiful part with little white houses in narrow alleys with flowers outside) is actually within the walls of the the castle. Funny to think of people leading their daily lives quite unconscious of the history surrounding them. Today's picture ( needs clicking on to enlarge) tries to give an impression of the narrow flowery lanes around the castle.
Decided to out to dinner at Paraiso which was closed, so went to Moiras Encantadas at Paderne. In a beautifully restored cellar, but food is overpriced and the waiter gloomy ( contrast to almost all the other staff in the local restaurants who are cheerful and welcoming). General impression of pretentiousness, so not recommended.